Beautiful Lao the undiscovered tourist mecca.

We will be traveling around Lao for the next couple of years, and will bring you places to see and recommend places to saviour the huge variety of gourmet delights that are available.

When you first arrive in Lao you should get hold of a copy of the Lao National Tourism Administration Guide 2006 (its free). It is full of useful information and maps for the traveler.

To lead us into what will be a number of stories from the region we have taken the following information from the guide book mentioned above. It provides the perfect introduction to what is a truly fascinating area.

As for you, dear readers from all over the world, our purpose is to help you discover Laos, its many charms, its hospitality, its many cultures and faces, its customs and heritage. It is also to provide you with very practical and useful tips on how to explore Laos from a different angle, breaking away from your daily routine while avoiding the tourist traps. After all, discovering Laos is really “A state of mind”!

The ancient kingdom of the Million Elephants, which became the Popular Democratic Republic of Laos in 1975, is now open to tourism. Every year some 800 000 travellers cross its boundaries, which cannot be compared with the vast flow of tourists spreading throughout Thailand. So let’s discover the differences and originality which make up the charm of Laos.

Geography

Laos covers some 236,000 km2 with a north – south length of 1000 km. The Annamitic mountain range crossed the north – west region while the Mekong River divides Laos with Thailand and Myamar in the west. Navigable all year round, despite numerous reefs, The Mekong is the heart of the country with most of the arable land being along the banks.

Roads

Laos has 14,000 km roads, 80% of which are not asphalted. The net work, however, has been greatly improved. The North – South route: Luang Prabang – Vientiane – Pakse – Champasak, is now of good quality as is the transversal road leading to the Jars Plain. As far as the rest are concerned. Well it’s Paris to Dakar without T.V and camels! An intrepid explorer’s paradise! Presently very few road maps are available whilst city maps are rare and uninformative. But take heart! Laos is opening up and so is, for further information, the “Carterie du Laos”, every day from 8 a.m to 8 p.m

Population

Laos is the least populated country in S.E. Asia, with only 6,000,000 inhabitants. The population in the south of the country is relatively sparse, whilst the upper regions claim 80% of the inhabitants.

Government

The republic democratic popular party of Laos came to power in 1975. The regime is one of popular democracy: a unique party. The executive power is controlled by the president and elected by the national assembly for a 5 year period. The president is assisted by the prime minister who, in turn, is in charge of the ministry council. The legislative power, guarantor of the constitution, is held by the national assembly, which consists of 85 representatives elected by the people for a term of 5 years.

Economy

The national resources of Laos are limited and under exploited. The largest economy is agriculture which provides a living for 80% of the population. The principal crop is rice but corn, tobacco, cotton and coffee are also grown. Livestock is generally concentrated around cattle, buffalo and pigs of which there are over 1,000,000 per head of each. The industries are limited to every day consumer needs. Laos also sells electricity to Thailand.

Climate

May to October is the raining season. It does not rain constantly but a raincoat or umbrella might be a useful fashion accessory. November to May sees the dry season, bring a hat and sun cream. Winter woolies will be needed in the mornings and evenings during the months of December, January and February especially in the North where temperatures drop between 10 – 15 C; polar conditions for Lao people.

The official language is Lao of sanscrit and pali native. English and French speakers should manage to get themselves understood particularly in the cities

Very small basic vocabulary:

Hello:	Sabaidi		Dollar	Dolla
Thank you:	Koptiaye		Zero	Soun
To eat:	Kin nam		One	Neung
To drink	Kim nam		Two	Song
Rice	Khao		Three	Sam
Yes	Heu, thia		Four	Si
No	Bo		Five	Ha
Where	Iou Sai?		Six	Hok
How Much	To dai?		Seven	Tiet
Dear	Peng		Eight	Pet
Bus	Lot me		Nine	Kao
Physician	Mao		Ten	Sip
Hospital	Tham mo		One Hundred	Neung loi
Hotel	Hong lme		One Thousand	Neung Pan
Toilets	Hong nam		Mail	Paisani

The wild life in Laos must rank as one of the most abundant and varied of all Asian countries. Wild elephants roam the south at Champasaak and at Attopeu and Sayabouri in the north. Fresh water dolphins can be seen in the south at Fe Khong island whilst other wild animals include leopards, black bears, tigers etc…

Buddhism

The main religion is Buddhism. The Lao practice Theravada or the “small vehicle” which spread through Laos between the 14th and 17th centuries. The ideal situation is to reach Nirvan without going through reincarnation. So for the Lao doing good deeds rather than bad ensures salvation. The monks are held in high esteem and treated with great respect. When entering a religious place please observe the proper rules of dress. Ladies must wear a dress or at least a suitably long skirt and shoulders should be covered. For men, wearing long pants is recommended. Shoes must be removed at the temple entrance. If you have to sit down avoid pointing your feet forward. If your joints allow it, fold your legs beneath you and keep your feet towards your back.

About 70 of Laos rich, ethnic groups, can be identified. For simplification, however, they are traditionally devided into 70 main groups according to their geographical location: Lao Loum (Lao from the plains); Lao Theung (from the hills); Lao Sung (from the mountains). It becomes difficult to know who belongs to whom from this point, amongst the many are: Black Hmong; White Hmong; Thai Dam etc..
The province of Laung Namtha appears to have the most diverse groups whilst Maung Sing is the easiest place to meet them. The downside being that more tourism leads to a weakening in minorities.

How to Behave

In Laos, as anywhere else, if you are in doubt, you can observe the basic rules of politeness. Giving a good impression of your self will be greatly appreciated by the Lao people whose kind spirit and gentleness are often hidden beneath their shy nature.

Extension of Visa

You have a visa valid for 15 or 40 days but you still wish to see a lot of things? You can have it extended but only in Vientiane, with a 2 US$ cost per day. Omitting it is going to cost you 10 US$ per day when leaving the country. It’s worth having a look on the calendar from time to time! There is no possibility of extension for a transit visa.
Safety

Vientiane and the rest of country is a relatively safe place however a little common sense and caution should be applied. For example, do not leave unattended bags around 2 wheeled vehicles. Although minor crimes such as pick pocketing are rare, they can ruin your trip so be vigilante. If driving a motor cycle wear a helmet, even if it is hot.

Danger!!!

Road traffic: the hecatomb
Driving in Laos is risky especially in urban areas. Lao people drive by putting their faith in the Lord Budda. A road code exhists but it is not respected so be careful particularly when on a motorbike. Road insurance is a necessity in Laos.

Gallantry: Gentlemen behavior at all times!
Those seeking romance with Lao people in mind may be disappointed. Laos, unlike many of its neighbouring countries, forbids the liason between foreign gentlemen and local persons consequently the HIV virus is not the only risk involved. Police inspections of hotels sometimes occur and one may be subjected to a hefty fine and expulsion while the locaux participant faces a far harsher penalty. So be careful.

Drugs

For those who need reminding of the obvious – drugs are illegal in Laos. Consequences of drug abuse include the spread of crime, poverty, suffering, and HIV/AIDS. Don’t be tempted by any offers, as you could find yourself in deep trouple. Drug consumers are often sent to jail for several years, while suppliers face the death penalty. You can make a difference.

Thirsty

Water is best. The tap water is undrinkable but bottled water is available everywhere. To cool your drinks use ice cubes as opposed to crushed ice where bugs lurk. Drink beer lao which is brewed in Vientiane. Pleasant and refreshing, it is sold for around 7000 Kip fo a 650 ml bottle.
Always order one at a time and two glasses, even it you are alone. It’s customary. Coffee time. Introduced by the French and cultivated on the Boloven plateau. Available everywhere. In the morning you will find café nom (with milk) or café song san (coffee with 2 levels). If you prefer it black as for a café dam.
After 11 am you will only find Nescafe red cup which is to be avoided. With coffee you will usually be offered a tea nam sa for arounf\d 2000 Kip. Take note that if you ask for tea you will be brought a cup of hot water with a lipton tea bag, for which, if you can’t run away, you will be charged 5000 Kip.

Gastronomy

Everything for taste!
All over Laos you will find cheap foods available in markets or small shops.
If you have a more sophisticated taste, there is no problem; you can find French, Italian restaurants amongst others. But remember that lao food is know to be one the most diverse and delicious in Asia. The most popular plate of rice being “khao niao”, steam cooked sticky rice. Vegetables? You will find plenty of them: salads; cabbages; tomatoes; potatoes etc… As far as fruit is concerned amongst the many are; coconut; papayas, mangoes, bananas; durians.. A few traditional lao dishes you should know: the well known papaya salad “tamahung” ( if you have a fragile throat ask for it without chilli, but it’s a pity).
“Feu” is one of the most popular dishes, a noodle soup with meat and vegetables.
Another soup is “tom-yam”’ with chicken or fish offered in a circular stove heated by charcoal.
“Lap” traditional Lao salad, is made from mince meat or fish seasoned with green lemon and chilli. Looking for an unusual meat? Try; ants eggs, grilled grasshoppers, snakes, dogs, cats, rats, squirrels, bats etc..
Bon Appetit!

Money

The official currency is Laos is Kip, 265 Kip for 1 Thai Baht. 10 900 Kip for 1 US$. 12 500 kip for 1 euro. Banknotes of 500, 1000, 2000 and 5000 are available, however, the new banknotes of 10 000 and 20 000 Kip will fit nicely into the brand new wallet you purchased at he airport. Thai baht and US dollars are freely accepted in big towns, but less so in rural areas. So who will take your Euros? Banks are open from Monday to Friday from 8.30 am to 3.30 pm, as in Europe. Visa a withdrawals come with a charge of 3% whilst most credit cards are accepted in high class hotels in a few shops and restaurants in Vientiane and Luang Prabang.

Markets

Markets are numerous all over Laos the two main ones being in Vientiane and Luang Prabang. In Vientiane you can buy all the goods manufactured in laos such as tribal handicrafts, jewellery, traditional fabrics and carvings all of which are sold at “Talat Sao” (morning markets) on Lane Xang Avenue not far from the post office. Open everyday closed at 5 pm. Near Talat Sao, behind the bus station, you will find “Talat Khua Ding” which sells fresh produce, fruits, vegetables, meat, flowers and miscellaneous merchandise. “Talat Thong Khan Kham” is open all day and a huge array of goods can be purchased. Finally there is “Talat That Luang” behind the Stupa That Luang which specializes in exoctic products.

Sauna

Temple nuns run the Vat Sok Pa Luang which is well known for its herbal saunas. A relaxing time can be had in a typical Lao environment. To get there ask a tuk tuk driver (they all know where it is).

Health

The health situation has improved significantly over the last few years although there is still a lot to do. Problems can be treated in a number of Vientiane hospitals (Mahosot, Setthathirat and the International Clinic) or in hospitals or dispensaries in the provinces. 
In serious cases you may prefer to be treated in Thailand at Nong Khai, Udon Thani or Khon Kaen which will save you a trip to Bangkok.

Pharmacies:

Fear not. You are not in the back woods of south America where you are never sure which Gomez or Sanchez pharmacy will be open for business. In Laos pharmacies are numerous and open every day. They are well stocked with medicines from China, Thailand and Europe (especially in Vientiane).

In the event of the dreaded “tourist gut”, don’t panic! What else can the intrepid traveler expect? Take interix or immodium. Re-hydrate yourself frequently, eat rice, mature bananas and drink Pepsi (free advertising)! Avoid spicy dishes (not always easy).

Hepatitis, Japanese Encephalitis: If you have not been vaccinated, it’s too late.

You’ve been bitten by a dog? You are fortunate to be in Laos where anti rabies injections are available even in remote areas.

Snake, Scorpion, bites etc.. We know its painful but very rarely fatal, check out the opening hours of your nearest medical dispensary.

Mosquito bites. Beware the females, Paludism or dengue fever is waiting to pounce. There is no miraculous remedy but it will pass. Keep covered, use a good repellent and a mosquito screen and everything should be fine. It is easily diagnosed and well taken care of in Vientiane.

Tiger Bites? Very bad, especially in the rainy season. You will be comforted to know that your family will read about you in the daily newspapers.

“ LET YOUR TRIP BEGIN”